How to Make the Ultimate War Game Table

Ah, the table top war games table. A must for any serious gamer who doesn’t want to put up with the plethora of crap you may encounter at the local hobby store, be it the stink of the unwashed masses that insist on picking up and dropping your models, or the scream and whine of the sore loser 10 year old. If you want to game on your terms, you need a table of your own.

Now sure, you can always settle for some green felt on the dining room table, but if you want to make a bitching table for your games that’s not only durable, but functional - here’s all you’ll need to know. This plan along with making a few table tops to fit into it will cost you less than a hundred bucks, not bad at all.

Now as tools go, make sure you have at least the following : electric drill with screw and wood bits, a level, a circular saw, measuring tape, and a pencil. We recommend that you have a miter saw instead of a circular saw, and an electric sander will also help.

Now we’ve built quite a few gaming tables in our day, and after trial and error we’ve decided that this design is not only the most affordable, but most versatile. On top of that, this plan has 2 big advantages.

- It’s able to be disassembled and reassembled in under 20 minutes, yet sturdy as a tank when it’s together. Making it perfect for conventions and people who may be moving at some point.

- Able to take on simple table tops OR modular terrain sections. Nothing is fixed. And because of the open underside, you can rig your scenery up with electricity and other effects.

Once disassembled, the whole damn thing can fit easily into the back of a truck.
Once disassembled, the whole damn thing can fit easily into the back of a truck.

Note: this table was built to fit both a 4×6′ gaming area, and a 2×4′ record keeping area, for a grand total of 4×8′ of table area. If you go any larger or smaller, you will have to adjust the measurements accordingly. First stop - HOME DEPOT!

LordVonTush poses next to a few lucky boards that would be come the tank
LordVonTush poses next to a few lucky boards that would be come “the tank”

 Now here’s what you’ll need:

- 2 4×4″x8′ posts

- 6 2×6″x10′ boards

- 2 2×4″x10′ boards

- 1 2×4″x8′ board

- 32 1/4″ - 5.5″ long Carriage bolts

- 32 1/4″ nuts

- 32 washers

- 12 90* 1″ metal angle brackets AND at least 24 1″ pan head wood screws up to 48 preferred. The more the better.

Now if you’re not used to wood working, or you’ve never built a table like this before, you may want to get a few extra boards in case you make a mistake. 

Always remember that when working with power tools, you need a nice supply of brew. Safety first kids.
Always remember that when working with power tools, you need a nice supply of brew. Safety first kids.

 After a quick stop at the liquor store, we were ready to start hackin’ up some boards. Now using your miter or circular saw, cut those boards to the following dimensions:

- 2 4×4″x8′ posts into 4 4×4″x39.5″ posts

- 6 2×6″x10′ boards into 4 2×6″x49″ boards and 4 2×6″x100″ boards

- 2 2×4″x10′ boards and 1 2×4″x8′ board into 3 2×4″x49″ boards

starting cuts
starting cuts
Now the first step is to get all of the holes drilled into the bottom of the legs and to make sure they line up with holes drilled into the bottom frame boards, so that after you place the bolts in, you’ll wind up with this:
Note the longer 2x6s overlap the shorter ones.
Note the longer 2×6’s overlap the shorter ones.
Each post will have 4 holes drilled into them. We recommend 2 bolts per board side to prevent rocking once the table is complete. (If you don’t want to have the option of disassembling your table, you can use plain wood screws and forget about drilling holes.)

We measured 14″ to the tops of our bottom support boards in order to make a sort of “bar pole” on which to rest our feet during a long game.

Always measure twice, and mark which board holes match up with which post holes to avoid confusion.
Always measure twice, and mark which board holes match up with which post holes to avoid confusion.
Now before you start drilling, make sure that your bit is slightly larger than the diameter of the carriage bolts, and also long enough to go all the way through the 4×4″ posts. Making a “template” of the pattern in which you drill your holes will speed this step up considerably. Make sure you realize that 2 boards will be bolted to the posts in a close area, so be sure that the holes do not intersect each other.
With a long enough bit, you can drill holes right through the support board and post at the same time to make sure they line up right.
With a long enough bit, you can drill holes right through the support board and post at the same time to make sure they line up right.
As you drill, make sure you’re drilling the holes so that once the boards are attached the posts stand level. Once all the holes are drilled, attach the bottom supports to the posts using your carriage bolts, nuts, and washers. Leave the excess bolt pointing inward to prevent people from getting cut on them. Your posts should look similar to this:
Make each set of holes angled from one another, and leave space between holes to prevent bolts from running into each other.
Make each set of holes angled from one another, and leave space between holes to prevent bolts from running into each other.
Make sure you take your time up to this point. It’s important to have a solid foundation before moving on. There will be some slight movement because we are dealing with carriage bolts placed in slightly larger holes - this is normal. Once tightened up, and once you get the top supports on, it will become a brick. Make sure you tighten your nuts so the washers just begin to sink into the wood.
The carriage bolt, nut, and washer combo will be able to be taken apart with ease.
The carriage bolt, nut, and washer combo will be able to be taken apart with ease.
Already the table is sturdy as hell. This is going to be one hell of a table. BEER BREAK!
Already the table is sturdy as hell. This is going to be one hell of a table. BEER BREAK!
Well the hard part is over. The next step will be a bit easier now that your used to the process. We will be adding a top support frame that serves two purposes. It will contain the table tops placed inside of it, and prevent them from shifting. AND you may also add a “lip” that will prevent dice from falling off the table and bouncing under a dank and spider-web infested place. God I hate that. After this step your table should look like this:  
The tops of those posts will be part of the system that supports the table tops you place within the frame.
The tops of those posts will be part of the system that supports the table tops you place within the frame.
Before you start this step, decide on how much of a lip (if any) you want to raise above the playing surface. Keep in mind that the average table top is anywhere between 1.5-and 2″ thick. We decided on a 1&1/4″ lip and it works wonderfully. Whatever you decide, make careful measurements, and note that the table top will sit directly on the tops of those posts. After you measure, drill the holes for the top supports just like you did for the bottom, and tighten the bolts to hold the frame sturdy. Always be sure to check your levels!
Take your time, drill and bolt as you go.
Take your time, drill and bolt as you go.
Now you’re at the last leg of the project. Grab those 2×4s and measure so that one is centered every two feet along the long supports, and it is IMPERATIVE that they line up with the top of the posts. They will form the second method of supports for your table tops. After this step, your table should look like this:
The 2x4 supports and post tops will be more than enough to support any terrain you can come up with, and the lip will keep them and dice right where they should be.
The 2×4 supports and post tops will be more than enough to support any terrain you can come up with, and the lip will keep them and dice right where they should be.

Take each of your 2×4s and attach a 90* metal bracket to each side using the wood screws. We suggest using another block of scrap wood to make sure they are nice and level.

Make sure the 2x4 ends and brackets are flush.
Make sure the 2×4 ends and brackets are flush.

Now go through and screw the 2×4 supports into the upper frame, level with the tops of the posts. If you want a tad more support for your table tops, cut a length of 2×2 and fit it onto the short supports as shown:

As you can see, the post tops, 2x4 supports and extra 2x2 support all sit level to create a flat plane for table tops to sit on.
As you can see, the post tops, 2×4 supports and extra 2×2 support all sit level to create a flat plane for table tops to sit on.

AND THERE YAH HAVE IT! All in all, it took us about a day to complete, and less than 100 bucks with a table top. Whats cool about this plan is the versatility, it will take all manner of table tops, even modular 2×2′ chunks, and can be completely taken apart and reassembled time and time again.

 

Finished table with a 6x4 playing area and a 2x4 record keeping area. Weve placed green turf on the underside of the record keeping section so if needed, the table can offer a 4x8 playing surface!

Finished table with a 6x4' playing area and a 2x4' record keeping area. We've placed green turf on the underside of the record keeping section so if needed, the table can offer a 4x8' playing surface!

Hopefully, youll be in a state of mind to actually play a game on the table after youre done with it...
Hopefully, you’ll be in a state of mind to actually play a game on the table after you’re done with it…
Most important thing to remember is to take your time through each step and refer back to the instructions as you go. Pay close attention to the pictures also. If you have any questions write me!
Next we’ll post how to make table top sections for your new table!
-
DEACON 

Filed under: Games - Game Craft, Ultimate Game Table by DEACON

51 Responses to “How to Make the Ultimate War Game Table”

  1. Will, on September 30th, 2008 at 3:13 pm Said:

    Great to see this again. Some day when I have the space I’m gonna build one since I don’t have $9000!

    http://www.geekchichq.com/The_Sultan_.html

  2. DEACON, on September 30th, 2008 at 3:28 pm Said:

    Yeah that thing is amazing. But the good ‘ol tank is a great substitute!

  3. Kevin, on November 10th, 2008 at 6:30 pm Said:

    I need one of these!

  4. Warn00b, on January 13th, 2009 at 6:15 am Said:

    im sorry for the question but why is this the ultimate war game table? isnt it just a flat green surfaced table?

  5. DEACON, on January 23rd, 2009 at 10:14 am Said:

    uh no. You can place a flat green table top in there if you want, but its versitility will allow you to put any sort of table top in there you wish. Did you actually read the article?

  6. BadKarma, on February 13th, 2009 at 2:37 pm Said:

    Where is the plans for the top sections?

    Gonna build one of these. Thanks guys.

  7. Rob H. - Canada, on February 14th, 2009 at 10:22 am Said:

    Thanks for restoring this to the web!! I had to go to the Way Back Machine to get the original article, but not all the pictures were there. I’m just about finished constructing the gaming room. The table is next!

    I was considering making the 4×4 posts from cedar to reduce the weight. More expensive, true, but it would make the table easier to move around. What do you think?

    I second the notion of restoring the links to the top sections article.

    Thanks again Deacon and von Tush!!!!

  8. DEACON, on February 14th, 2009 at 1:29 pm Said:

    The tops article is coming as soon as I finihs up my current project.

    Cedar legs would be cool - and what a nice smell it would bring!

  9. BadKarma, on February 16th, 2009 at 8:28 am Said:

    That would be killer DEACON.

    Thanks.

  10. Steve Clay, on February 20th, 2009 at 5:12 pm Said:

    Greeting from the UK. …..Fantastic table guys! very impressed. I produce wargame buildings and scenics and have just been commissioned to build a full table and layout and this has given me a few great ideas….Keep up the good work guys!

  11. David, on February 24th, 2009 at 12:10 am Said:

    Great to see this article back again. It was the basis and inspiration for my current “ultimate wargame table”.

    A few mods:
    1. The top layer is identical to the above
    2. My uprights are 41″ tall
    3. Uprights mounted on piano-grade casters
    4. Two levels of shelves underneath

    The slightly taller height PLUS the castors makes the whole table stand mid-belly for a 6′ tall man, so it might be a bit tall for some people. Depends on how you like to game. The extra height was partially dictated by my desire to have two shelves high enough for banker-boxes, but I’m much more comfortable standing than sitting anyways. My back is unfriendly with me if I have to stoop over much, so having a game table that allows me to play everything at a decent working height for me is totally awesome.

  12. DEACON, on February 24th, 2009 at 12:16 am Said:

    awesome - could be cool with some bar stools and a nice bar pole to rest yer feet on.

  13. The Drunk Dwarves » Making Tops for Your Game Table, on March 29th, 2009 at 11:00 pm Said:

    [...] you get your table built, you gottah have something to put in it right!? Well this article goes over how to build 2 [...]

  14. ramirezhatchell, on April 5th, 2009 at 1:03 pm Said:

    I love you guys, when I finally get my house to myself this is going to be one of my first projects

  15. DEACON, on April 5th, 2009 at 1:33 pm Said:

    Awesome - send pics!

  16. nilus, on May 18th, 2009 at 3:59 pm Said:

    Been looking at this design for a while, I think my fathers day gift to myself might be putting one of these together.

    Does anyone foresee a problem if I make it about 9 inches shorter. I plan to use this as both a minature table and for RPGs and board games so I figure people might want to be able to still use it sitting down.

  17. nilus, on May 18th, 2009 at 5:56 pm Said:

    Also why buy 2 2×4x10 and 1 2×4x8 boards if all three are going to be 2×4x49 in the end. Wouldn’t it just be easier to get 3 2×4x8?

  18. DEACON, on May 18th, 2009 at 5:59 pm Said:

    Dont see why not. We made this table for tall bar stools, but any height will do really.

  19. DEACON, on May 19th, 2009 at 7:24 am Said:

    Nilus - To tell yah the truth, I can’t remember the rationale! Give it a shot and see if there’s any difference, maybe we can change it up.

  20. Tim, on May 21st, 2009 at 11:53 pm Said:

    The 4X4 posts are really overkill for the amount of weight that this table will take- You could leg the thing with 2X4s, save a ton of weight, and still have 5 people stand on top of the table without a problem

  21. DEACON, on May 22nd, 2009 at 12:34 am Said:

    Yes, but we thought the 4×4 allowed more room for the washers to pass through on both sides.

  22. Andrew, on May 23rd, 2009 at 4:32 pm Said:

    Awesome!

    I want to make a few alterations for my own, though. I want to make two 4×6 which can be bolted together for 6×8, (or in other configurations) or kept separate. The difficulty I face is that the “lip” must be removable to allow the tables to butt up together. Any thoughts on this would be welcome. I’ll build two simpler “sideboard” tables for record keeping, drink holding, &c..

  23. LordVonTush, on May 27th, 2009 at 9:49 am Said:

    Hey there…What I’d recommend is to take a look at the photo three up from the bottom here. If you wanted to make two that would work end to end is anywhere that you want the tables to go together would be to move the “lip” from the outside to the inside. All you’ll have to do is lower it so it is flush with the top of leg supports and on the inside. That will adjust your measurements on the length of both the “lip boards” as well as the horizontal mid-table supports, but it should work and still be strudy as all get out.

  24. Tim Woodward, on August 21st, 2009 at 9:41 am Said:

    Any idea when the table top section instructions will be ready?

  25. DEACON, on August 21st, 2009 at 9:53 am Said:

    yup - they are already posted here:
    http://www.drunkdwarves.com/?cat=88

  26. Josh V, on August 22nd, 2009 at 10:04 pm Said:

    Very nice table. Just built one myself off your specs. I made a few mods and had Home Depot cut the wood for me, but it went together smooth. Came out to be 70 bucks for the materials. Thanks for the inspiration!!

  27. Tim Woodward, on August 25th, 2009 at 11:23 am Said:

    Thanks Deacon

  28. DEACON, on August 25th, 2009 at 11:27 am Said:

    No problem!

  29. Sol, on October 7th, 2009 at 11:11 am Said:

    This is an incredible table. It looks easy enough to build and seems perfect for gaming. Any suggestions regarding how to use the space under the table? Obviously, one could use it for storage - you know, just drop some boxes under there. It would be even cooler if there was a way to add pull-out shelves for casualties, books, or models pre-deployment. This is probably more complicated than needed for such an awesome versatile table, but just an idea. Thanks for this fantastic tutorial.

  30. DEACON, on October 7th, 2009 at 12:12 pm Said:

    Thanks!

    This table was intended to be portable, but if you wanted to make it a perminent fixture in your game room, you could do all sorts of stuff under the table for storage.

    For example, add a large sheet of plywood across all of the “foot rests” and whammo - instant shelf.

    You could even cut the space in half and add 2 shelves under there. Enclose the area and add cabinet doors to hide the stuff in storage, etc.

    Skies the limit really.

  31. Crenshaw, on October 27th, 2009 at 3:40 pm Said:

    “Also why buy 2 2×4×10 and 1 2×4×8 boards if all three are going to be 2×4×49 in the end. Wouldn’t it just be easier to get 3 2×4×8?”

    I’m guessing this is a typo. You only need (1) 2×4x10 and (1) 2×4x8. From that you can make (3) 2×4x49″.

    Great design and presentation. I’ll definitely be doing this! But I’ll probably make mine 30″-ish tall for normal chairs.

    Thanks guys!

  32. csinning, on November 2nd, 2009 at 11:53 am Said:

    I assume I am missing something here but why are the side rails cut to 49″ wouldn’t that end up leaving an inch of room to loose dice down on a 4′ wide playing board?

    Is the idea just to make it easier to swap terrain boards?

    I understand that the long side rails in theory spend most of their extra 4″ covering up the end of the short side rails.

  33. J.Mummert, on January 13th, 2010 at 8:22 pm Said:

    To Crenshaw: I did both of the things you mentioned, with the easier board obtaining, and the shorter table (my friends are all 5′4″ to 5″8)

    To csinning: I think it is, I have at most a 1/2 inch gap between the inserts and the side rails, so dice falling isn’t an issue as far as I can tell.

    This table is awesome, I’ve owed LvT and Deacon pics now for the last two years of the finished product. Only thing I wish I’d have done differently would be to use good wood versus construction grade pine. The stuff we have around here warps something fierce… Almost 20 degrees off center on one side while true on the other.

  34. Kevin, on April 18th, 2010 at 6:36 am Said:

    On 11/10/08 I said “I need one of these,” and now I finally have it. I modified it to be slightly smaller. Overall it is same height, but the playing area is 84″ x 42″ and the table tops are both 42″ x 42″. I too needed this to be portable since I was setting it up in a high school classroom. The height of the table actually makes it good to sit on classroom desks while we play. I made the table tops the same size since we are playing mainly historical boardgames (like World in Flames) and I just needed them to be portable in a minivan. The lip on this table made it so I could cover the table tops and the game would be hidden and undisturbed during the school day. I also ordered some custom cut plexiglass (1/4″ acrylic) online from Professional Plastics. This way the maps will remain flat and protected. I’m still waiting for the plexiglass order.

    ** I do have one PROBLEM though. The table sways. I don’t know if the carriage bolts need to be re-tightened or maybe something else. Any ideas/suggestions would be most helpful!

    Thank you for the table idea. This is perfect for using in a classroom since it can be easily stored or transported!

  35. DEACON, on April 18th, 2010 at 9:47 am Said:

    Thats odd - ours was really stable..

    Did you leave anything out? ex: 2 carrige bolters per connection, the screwed in support beams, etc?

    Hey LordVonTush - any suggestions?

  36. LordVonTush, on April 19th, 2010 at 12:50 pm Said:

    Did the sway happen as soon as the project was completed or did it slowly develop over time as the table was assembled and disassembled?
    If it developed over time there’s a good chance that the holes for the carriage bolts are widening. The threads of the bolt could act like a saw or sandpaper slowly widening the hole as they’re pushed in and out. This is just a theoretical fix (since I haven’t tried this myself I can’t confirm that it will work) but you might be able to find some sort of metal tubing that will fit the carriage bolt snugly and ram those through the holes (make the tube slightly shorter than the width of the leg and secure them with glue) and then you can really torque those carriage bolts down. This could help your problem if it is the holes enlarging on you because it will stop the holes from growing.

    This might be a dumb question but one worth asking - Is the floor level? Is it the table itself swaying or more of a rocking?

  37. Kevin, on April 19th, 2010 at 2:00 pm Said:

    Hey Guys, thanks for the quick replies.

    The floor is level. It might be that the holes for the carriage bolts are becoming enlarged. I have only assembled the table twice. We do slide the table across the floor about 5 feet to play, then we slide it back up against a wall when we are done. Maybe that is the reason why the bolts are not snug anymore, from the pulling and pushing? I will try tightening the bolts and if that doesn’t work I will look for some metal tubes as you suggested.

  38. DEACON, on April 19th, 2010 at 2:23 pm Said:

    Perhaps installing some casters with brakes at the end of each leg… That would allow it to roll when needed easily.

  39. LordVonTush, on April 20th, 2010 at 9:18 am Said:

    Sliding the table puts stress on the legs and there are quite a few parts that connect to those legs so there is a chance that those forces will start to work the nuts loose a bit and the nuts might have backed up a little bit. You should have some luck with tightening down the bolts and get everything snug again.

    It sounds like you are on linoleum being in a classroom so an alternative option to wheels would be some felt glued to the bottom of the legs, that should allow it to slide easier on the floor…Of course that assumes you’re on linoleum or something with a smooth surface.

  40. Kevin, on April 21st, 2010 at 8:52 pm Said:

    Casters would be ideal, but I would have to take down the current game to do that. I did put some felt pads on the legs last week and it does slide more easily now. No I just need to remember to bring in my 7/16 wrench to tighten those legs up. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks again for the help.

  41. Mark, on May 8th, 2010 at 6:24 am Said:

    Have you looked into making this somewhat ‘collapsible ?

    I’m not a carpenter by any means, but I’ve put enough furniture together to see that the metal tongue and groove type fittings can be used in something along these lines, which would allow for maybe 1-2 bolts to be used on one side (or the same corners on the same end) to tighten everything down. This would allow it to come apart in a quick n’ dirty way.

    I’m looking at getting oen of the ‘really nice’ tables that double as a dining room table for upstairs, and then 2 of these for downstairs - but will need to be semi mobile.

    Overall I love the idea and how receptive you are to modifications. Great work!

  42. Mark, on May 8th, 2010 at 6:26 am Said:

    Also - you could try using the permanent lock-tite (red stuff) as a form of preventing bolts from wiggling loose.

    Use blue if you plan on taking it apart again in the near future - although the red isn’t truly permanent, it’s kind of a bitch and a half to get off.

  43. LordVonTush, on May 10th, 2010 at 1:11 pm Said:

    “I’m looking at getting oen of the ‘really nice’ tables that double as a dining room table for upstairs,”

    Funny you mention that…We’ve been in the discussion stages of making some plans to do just that. We’re still a ways away as the area for it becomes prepared and then of course there’s still the final designs and build that need to happen. But once we do we’ll post it here.

    A few features we’re looking at is a removable top so you have the finished/dining room table top and underneath is the gamescape. A bottom that drops/slides/lifts out so the gamescape can be changed to fit the game played.

    I’m not sure what you’re referring to when you say “metal tongue in groove” fittings. I’d love to hear some elaboration on it since I’m not familiar with those. Is there a chance you’re talking about joist-hangers? Galvanized brackets used to join dimensional lumber. The most common company for those is Simpson StrongTie.

  44. J.Mummert, on May 16th, 2010 at 12:59 pm Said:

    I can vouch for the bolt holes wearing loose from movement. We had a DM who was a little larger than some, and he insisted on pushing the table every week with his ‘largesse’.
    We cranked the bolts down again, but I’m starting to bite pretty far into the legs. I like the sleeve idea, and when we move the table to its new home will provide feedback regarding. for now though, I opted for larger washers to at least attempt to get more seizure on the bolts.

  45. tc, on June 23rd, 2010 at 4:56 pm Said:

    Just use folding tables; they cost $40 each at Costco and Sams and fold away; all we do is put a few sheets of board on top to make uniform flatness when placed on carpet. Far easier.

  46. LordVonTush, on June 24th, 2010 at 10:17 am Said:

    Yeah, could also just play on the floor which is the cheapest option, but there’s something about having a kick ass gaming table that yells: “I take my gaming f’ing serious!” :)

  47. Kevin, on June 28th, 2010 at 5:09 pm Said:

    I agree with Tush. While I have played WWI naval miniatures on the floor, it is nice to have a custom built table.

    I sawzall-ed the skeleton of my last table. I’m going to start from scratch again and use lighter/thinner wood and maybe add in two more legs around the middle. I plan on using casters this time and making it lower to the ground. Then I am going to stain it. My only worry is the bottom boards. I’m afraid they will be in the way of our legs and feet. Maybe making a crisscross brace on the inside-bottom would work better, and then not using the 2 extra legs. What do you think?

    Btw, my original table worked as planned. I was able to cover the table-top area and lock it down so no one could disturb the game underneath. Great table idea. It was easily customized to fit my needs.

  48. LordVonTush, on June 29th, 2010 at 1:45 pm Said:

    I’m not really sure what you’re looking to achieve. Are you looking to add extra support in the center? Prevent potential sagging in the middle? Or just looking for more legs in general to distribute the weight?

  49. Looking for the Best Game Rooms & Ideas. - EN World D&D / RPG News, on July 28th, 2010 at 9:11 am Said:

    [...] I like that you can change the tabletop to be different things (like what if I wanted a hex map?): The Drunk Dwarves

  50. Mark, on July 30th, 2010 at 6:16 pm Said:

    Guys,

    I’ve had the plans for this table for about 4 years, and now that I have my game room done, I’m FINALLY ready to build it. However, I have a concern that I’m hoping you could help me with. I read above that there is a measurement that may be off.

    Specifically:
    1) csinning - I assume I am missing something here but why are the side rails cut to 49″ wouldn’t that end up leaving an inch of room to loose dice down on a 4′ wide playing board? Is the idea just to make it easier to swap terrain boards?

    2) Spencer from the 40K Radio program mentioned using your design, but ran into some problems with the table top - but he didn’t specify what the problems were.

    Are there any measurement issues, or typos that you’ve been made aware of?

    Thanks!

    Mark

  51. DEACON, on July 30th, 2010 at 6:44 pm Said:

    1 - Its to make it easy to swap out boards, AND to allow room for game-scapes and stuff you have wrapped over the sides of the toppers and tacked. If you find this is too much space, you can shrink it down a bit, or simply use a thin piece of wood as a spacer to fill in the gap.
    2 -Thats odd - I find the toppers to be quite easy to build.
    Theres nothing in the way of typos that I have been made aware of, good luck!

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