How to Make the Ultimate War Game Table

Ah, the table top war games table. A must for any serious gamer who doesn’t want to put up with the plethora of crap you may encounter at the local hobby store, be it the stink of the unwashed masses that insist on picking up and dropping your models, or the scream and whine of the sore loser 10 year old. If you want to game on your terms, you need a table of your own.

Now sure, you can always settle for some green felt on the dining room table, but if you want to make a bitching table for your games that’s not only durable, but functional - here’s all you’ll need to know. This plan along with making a few table tops to fit into it will cost you less than a hundred bucks, not bad at all.

Now as tools go, make sure you have at least the following : electric drill with screw and wood bits, a level, a circular saw, measuring tape, and a pencil. We recommend that you have a miter saw instead of a circular saw, and an electric sander will also help.

Now we’ve built quite a few gaming tables in our day, and after trial and error we’ve decided that this design is not only the most affordable, but most versatile. On top of that, this plan has 2 big advantages.

- It’s able to be disassembled and reassembled in under 20 minutes, yet sturdy as a tank when it’s together. Making it perfect for conventions and people who may be moving at some point.

- Able to take on simple table tops OR modular terrain sections. Nothing is fixed. And because of the open underside, you can rig your scenery up with electricity and other effects.

Once disassembled, the whole damn thing can fit easily into the back of a truck.
Once disassembled, the whole damn thing can fit easily into the back of a truck.

Note: this table was built to fit both a 4×6′ gaming area, and a 2×4′ record keeping area, for a grand total of 4×8′ of table area. If you go any larger or smaller, you will have to adjust the measurements accordingly. First stop - HOME DEPOT!

LordVonTush poses next to a few lucky boards that would be come the tank
LordVonTush poses next to a few lucky boards that would be come “the tank”

 Now here’s what you’ll need:

- 2 4×4″x8′ posts

- 6 2×6″x10′ boards

- 2 2×4″x10′ boards

- 1 2×4″x8′ board

- 32 1/4″ - 5.5″ long Carriage bolts

- 32 1/4″ nuts

- 32 washers

- 12 90* 1″ metal angle brackets AND at least 24 1″ pan head wood screws up to 48 preferred. The more the better.

Now if you’re not used to wood working, or you’ve never built a table like this before, you may want to get a few extra boards in case you make a mistake. 

Always remember that when working with power tools, you need a nice supply of brew. Safety first kids.
Always remember that when working with power tools, you need a nice supply of brew. Safety first kids.

 After a quick stop at the liquor store, we were ready to start hackin’ up some boards. Now using your miter or circular saw, cut those boards to the following dimensions:

- 2 4×4″x8′ posts into 4 4×4″x39.5″ posts

- 6 2×6″x10′ boards into 4 2×6″x49″ boards and 4 2×6″x100″ boards

- 2 2×4″x10′ boards and 1 2×4″x8′ board into 3 2×4″x49″ boards

starting cuts
starting cuts
Now the first step is to get all of the holes drilled into the bottom of the legs and to make sure they line up with holes drilled into the bottom frame boards, so that after you place the bolts in, you’ll wind up with this:
Note the longer 2x6s overlap the shorter ones.
Note the longer 2×6’s overlap the shorter ones.
Each post will have 4 holes drilled into them. We recommend 2 bolts per board side to prevent rocking once the table is complete. (If you don’t want to have the option of disassembling your table, you can use plain wood screws and forget about drilling holes.)

We measured 14″ to the tops of our bottom support boards in order to make a sort of “bar pole” on which to rest our feet during a long game.

Always measure twice, and mark which board holes match up with which post holes to avoid confusion.
Always measure twice, and mark which board holes match up with which post holes to avoid confusion.
Now before you start drilling, make sure that your bit is slightly larger than the diameter of the carriage bolts, and also long enough to go all the way through the 4×4″ posts. Making a “template” of the pattern in which you drill your holes will speed this step up considerably. Make sure you realize that 2 boards will be bolted to the posts in a close area, so be sure that the holes do not intersect each other.
With a long enough bit, you can drill holes right through the support board and post at the same time to make sure they line up right.
With a long enough bit, you can drill holes right through the support board and post at the same time to make sure they line up right.
As you drill, make sure you’re drilling the holes so that once the boards are attached the posts stand level. Once all the holes are drilled, attach the bottom supports to the posts using your carriage bolts, nuts, and washers. Leave the excess bolt pointing inward to prevent people from getting cut on them. Your posts should look similar to this:
Make each set of holes angled from one another, and leave space between holes to prevent bolts from running into each other.
Make each set of holes angled from one another, and leave space between holes to prevent bolts from running into each other.
Make sure you take your time up to this point. It’s important to have a solid foundation before moving on. There will be some slight movement because we are dealing with carriage bolts placed in slightly larger holes - this is normal. Once tightened up, and once you get the top supports on, it will become a brick. Make sure you tighten your nuts so the washers just begin to sink into the wood.
The carriage bolt, nut, and washer combo will be able to be taken apart with ease.
The carriage bolt, nut, and washer combo will be able to be taken apart with ease.
Already the table is sturdy as hell. This is going to be one hell of a table. BEER BREAK!
Already the table is sturdy as hell. This is going to be one hell of a table. BEER BREAK!
Well the hard part is over. The next step will be a bit easier now that your used to the process. We will be adding a top support frame that serves two purposes. It will contain the table tops placed inside of it, and prevent them from shifting. AND you may also add a “lip” that will prevent dice from falling off the table and bouncing under a dank and spider-web infested place. God I hate that. After this step your table should look like this:  
The tops of those posts will be part of the system that supports the table tops you place within the frame.
The tops of those posts will be part of the system that supports the table tops you place within the frame.
Before you start this step, decide on how much of a lip (if any) you want to raise above the playing surface. Keep in mind that the average table top is anywhere between 1.5-and 2″ thick. We decided on a 1&1/4″ lip and it works wonderfully. Whatever you decide, make careful measurements, and note that the table top will sit directly on the tops of those posts. After you measure, drill the holes for the top supports just like you did for the bottom, and tighten the bolts to hold the frame sturdy. Always be sure to check your levels!
Take your time, drill and bolt as you go.
Take your time, drill and bolt as you go.
Now you’re at the last leg of the project. Grab those 2×4s and measure so that one is centered every two feet along the long supports, and it is IMPERATIVE that they line up with the top of the posts. They will form the second method of supports for your table tops. After this step, your table should look like this:
The 2x4 supports and post tops will be more than enough to support any terrain you can come up with, and the lip will keep them and dice right where they should be.
The 2×4 supports and post tops will be more than enough to support any terrain you can come up with, and the lip will keep them and dice right where they should be.

Take each of your 2×4s and attach a 90* metal bracket to each side using the wood screws. We suggest using another block of scrap wood to make sure they are nice and level.

Make sure the 2x4 ends and brackets are flush.
Make sure the 2×4 ends and brackets are flush.

Now go through and screw the 2×4 supports into the upper frame, level with the tops of the posts. If you want a tad more support for your table tops, cut a length of 2×2 and fit it onto the short supports as shown:

As you can see, the post tops, 2x4 supports and extra 2x2 support all sit level to create a flat plane for table tops to sit on.
As you can see, the post tops, 2×4 supports and extra 2×2 support all sit level to create a flat plane for table tops to sit on.

AND THERE YAH HAVE IT! All in all, it took us about a day to complete, and less than 100 bucks with a table top. Whats cool about this plan is the versatility, it will take all manner of table tops, even modular 2×2′ chunks, and can be completely taken apart and reassembled time and time again.

 

Finished table with a 6x4 playing area and a 2x4 record keeping area. Weve placed green turf on the underside of the record keeping section so if needed, the table can offer a 4x8 playing surface!

Finished table with a 6x4' playing area and a 2x4' record keeping area. We've placed green turf on the underside of the record keeping section so if needed, the table can offer a 4x8' playing surface!

Hopefully, youll be in a state of mind to actually play a game on the table after youre done with it...
Hopefully, you’ll be in a state of mind to actually play a game on the table after you’re done with it…
Most important thing to remember is to take your time through each step and refer back to the instructions as you go. Pay close attention to the pictures also. If you have any questions write me!
Next we’ll post how to make table top sections for your new table!
-
DEACON 

Filed under: Games - Game Craft, Ultimate Game Table by DEACON
53 Comments »